A detour through Manzanita
By Dave Powell
For the TODAY
Manzanita has a reputation. Tornadoes. Two of them. The first was October 2016 (months after I had hiked past on the Oregon Coast Trail) and the second in January 2020. Working with Trailkeepers of Oregon in Clatsop County this spring someone (and it wasn’t me!) mentioned that the bad weather forecast for the workday included the prediction that there won’t be any tornadoes in the state of Oregon — except Manzanita. Bad joke! It should be noted that the North Coast co-ordinator (and leader of that workday) is Manzanita resident Emily Akdedian. Fellow Manzanita resident Connie Soper is author of “Exploring the Oregon Coast Trail.” I have two copies of her book; one autographed at home and the other for use on trail. I first met her at Bayocean on a sponsored hike with the Friends of Netarts/WEBS. Besides the book, Connie continues to advance hiking. She was a major advocate for the Neahkahnie Gap trail and is currently president of the Oregon Coast Trail Foundation.
This detour is a combination of mine and one mentioned in Connie’s book, which I have heard referred to as the “Golf Course trail.”
Start by exiting the beach at “BA 21A Ocean Road” more commonly referred to as Laneda Avenue. Head east half a mile to Hoffman Wonder Garden. After all the green of Neahkahnie Mountain (hopefully the northern trail will open by the end of summer), and the yellowish sand along the ocean, the vibrant colors at Hoffman are a feast for the eyes. Also posted there is the poem by Connie “If Wings” (I didn’t know she was also an award-winning poet!) that begins:
“So simple. Sometimes you find yourself
emboldened by color, like living in a country
of hothouses — all chartreuse energy, ...”
After spending time at the Wonder Garden head west 0.2 miles back toward the ocean. It is time for a sweet tooth attack to be sated since it is miles before another village. There are two candy stores in Manzanita, both on Laneda Avenue and a short distance from each other.
Schwietert's Cones and Candy is the smaller store. Salt water taffy is packaged, so no choosing your flavor, but they have an ample selection of candies.
Manzanita Sweets is large enough to have salt water taffy separated by flavor, and a selection of loose candies. My latest stop included mini Reese’s cups and York peppermint patties.
Now for Connie’s part of the detour. Her book had its second edition in 2015, and things have slightly changed. After the candy stores you travel an eighth of a mile to Carmel Avenue. Her book says there is a gravel path, but now it is paved. Turn left/south along the path through quiet town streets (via Sunset and Necarney) until the paved path ends at Horizon Lane. A left goes into Nehalem State Park, but going straight a short distance to Glenesslin and turning left/west returns you back to the ocean and the Oregon Coast Trail. NOTE: Jetty Fishery is taking trail hikers from the tip of Nehalem State Park toward Nedonna Beach, avoiding the nine-mile walk along Highway 101.
If it is a typical day on the beach you will see people recreating. Kites, sandcastles, swimming, surfing and wind surfing, and even some on horses — perhaps under the gaze of soaring eagles.
ONE LAST NOTE:
If you aren’t taking the ferry and are going to hike Highway 101 around the bay, make sure you stop at Sarah Jo’s candy in Nehalem. It is just south of the Shell station, beside the Bunkhouse Restaurant. It’s small selection (caramels, fudge, and peanut brittle) are handmade and shipped around the world. If the owner isn’t in, call the phone number on the door. It IS worth the wait.