Dave’s Detours: Depoe Bay
By Dave Powell
For the TODAY
The 2022 hiking season is different. The coast is filled with visitors. Multiple trails closed since fall 2020 are open or will be shortly. Already this year I’ve worked 15 trail parties with Trailkeepers of Oregon. Locally, Rainforest Trail at Cascade Head is scheduled for a logout to remove trees fallen on the trail on May 14.
In past years, I took “long cuts” away from the Oregon Coast Trail. Trails that were off the beaten path. Several still need sharing, but this year I asked myself another question. Could a detour involve just not hiking? And the answer is ‘yes.’
Let’s start at Depoe Bay. “An army travels on its stomach” is credited to either Frederick the Great or Napoleon. The phrase works for single-day or through hikers on the Oregon Coast Trail. The human body can store a lot of fat, smaller amounts of carbohydrates (runners called it “hitting the wall” when these are used up) with an even smaller ability to store essential proteins. Feed the furnace. After getting some supplies at the grocery store before Lincoln City beach it is a longer hike without food since Captain Dan’s Pirate Pastry on SE 51st Street closed. My six-mile trek in search of calories has become 16 miles to Depoe Bay. And, since Cape Foulweather hasn’t opened, it is a longer trek to Newport before food supplies.
So let’s take a look at several kinds of detour.
Whale Watching
The Whale Watching Center (near the downtown traffic light and bridge) is now open, but with significantly reduced hours. It is hoped an increase in volunteers will occur before tourist season. I’ll state again, Cape Foulweather isn’t open yet. It was supposed to open on April 1 like the Whale Watching Center, but vandalism has pushed its opening date to June 1.
Two other ways to see whales are available in Depoe Bay. First, Zodiacs or secondly bigger, smoother riding boats. For a Zodiac ride, just past the bridge is the Whale Museum and Excursions headed by Carrie Newell. She taught at Astoria Community College for Oregon State Parks’ “Whale Watch Spoken Here” program and was one of the first to realize that Oregon has summer resident gray whales. The Zodiacs give a bumpy ride, you feel the power of the ocean as the waves lift and lower.
Or leave Highway 101 at the traffic light and go to the World’s Smallest Harbor for Dockside Charters. The boat is bigger, smoother, and I get better photos/movie clips. From there, it is a short distance into the park and the Creek Nature Trail.
Restaurants
There are numerous places to fill the tummy. Tidal Raves is always busy, but when hiking I wouldn’t be so rude as to enter smelling of the trail.
Other places in “downtown” Depoe Bay include: the Chowder Bowl (if the train isn’t running during the meal, ask — and then leave an extra tip); Gracie’s Sea Hag, a local favorite; The Horn/Public House and Brewing; and Whale Bites, located across the bridge next to the Whale Museum, opening May 13 and which, in years past has had excellent biscuits and gravy. If your hiking doesn’t include sit-down time there is HWY 101 Burger near the traffic light.
Calories for the road
With Cape Foulweather closed, it’s time for enough “empty calories”/junk food/vitamin J to reach Newport. Three candy stores are available in downtown Depoe Bay. My favorite is Ainslee’s Salt Water Taffy — home of the best hot cinnamon on the Oregon Coast. The taffy maker hurt his back, so I eagerly await the return of “good stuff.” Besides taffy, they also have chocolates and ice cream. Depoe Saltwater Taffy was closed last time I visited, it will hopefully re-open. The Depoe Bay Candy Company is across from the Whale Watching Center. A small store; its caramel popcorn has been munched for more than 80 years, a snack for the miles ahead.
Trails
For a nice walk, go to the World’s Smallest Harbor, continue through the park and then take the Creek Nature Trail.