Detour No. 6: Depoe Bay
It was nearly five years ago when I first experienced the power of the Pacific Ocean. Having retired in Ohio at the end of November 2015 my wife, Patricia, and I headed to Newport. We had great weather — no snow in the Rockies, several hours of rain and fog in the Columbia River Gorge; and then we got to Depoe Bay. We had not learned about tide tables. So, at Spouting Horn we were hit by a wall of water that jolted the car, proceeded to get past the passenger door rubber seals and damage items in the back foot well.
Depoe Bay is halfway between Lincoln City and Newport on Highway 101. Named after Native American Charles "Charley" Depot who was originally allotted the land in 1894 as part of the Dawes Act of 1887. In 1975, “One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest” was filmed here, and it is known as the “Whale Watching Capital of the Oregon Coast.” Because of COVID-19, the Whale Watching Center is closed, but several whale watching boats are still available. Several hundred resident Gray whales stay between Oregon and Washington from March to December rather than migrate to Alaska.
So rather than continue on Highway 101 — it’s Dave Detour Time.
The first jaunt is a cliffside trip to Depoe Bay Scenic View Area starting with a right at Vista (opposite the gas station). You follow Vista for 300 yards to the Depoe Bay Scenic View Area. You follow the cliffside trail for 350 yards, there are several benches for your viewing enjoyment. Major hint: for seeing whales — watch for boats, especially slow ones which are often following the whales for tourists. You then return to Highway 101 on Sunset. Tally: six tenths of a mile total (two tenths cliffside) of additional picturesque opportunity with Dave’s Detour rather than another 260 feet on Highway 101. It’s your choice.
The second jaunt to South Depoe Bay Creek Nature Trail starts at the traffic light at Bay Street. Turn left, go up the hill, take the staircase because the road narrows, past the community center and the World’s Smallest Harbor sign to the harbor fence. At the halfway mark is a sign commemorating the fishing sequence in “One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest,” which was filmed here. Several years ago, Larayne Higgins, advertising rep for Oregon Coast TODAY, played Nurse Ratched in a local production by Newport’s Red Octopus Theatre Company. You continue past the chain barrier, cross the footbridge, past the pavilion and then straight to the nature trail sign. The easiest way to tour this little forest is clockwise — at 100 yards at the “Y” bear left (“Right Frog,” the Muppet Movie), you will return later to go uphill. At another 100 yards is a bridge over the creek, another 75 yards is a nursery log — starting a tree that is now 40 to 50 feet tall. A short distance leads to another footbridge over Depoe Bay Creek and a sharp left leads to a secluded picnic area — a 10-foot-long single piece of wood for the table. Continue on the trail back to the “Y” and head left uphill. About 200 yards uphill is what I call the “Scarecrow Bench.” Taking this trail downhill you can go right around it, left around it, or sit and ponder even trying to squeeze between the trees over the bench; going uphill you can go right, left, through the trees and then ponder your choice. Finally, you reach Schoolhouse Road, follow it to the right, and follow its curve down to Highway 101.
Tally: 1.1 miles total with a view of the harbor rather than another half mile on Highway 101. And one last thought, just north of Depoe Bay is a parking area across from Boiler Bay Street near the Highway 101 mile 126 sign. If you are there with a negative tide, a short trip leads to the remains of the wooden steam schooner J. Marhoffer, abandoned on May 18, 1910. The boiler of the vessel can still be seen at negative tide, as can a chunk of the hull sticking up about six feet out of the bluff.
Final Tally: 1.7 miles of additional picturesque opportunity with Dave’s Detour rather than another half a mile on Highway 101. It’s your choice.