Detour No. 4 - Bob Straub State Park

In an alternate universe, the Oregon Coast is very different.

Walking south along the Pacific Ocean beach from Cape Lookout, you would hear the sound of four-lane traffic instead of the ocean. At McPhillips, about two miles north of Pacific City, there is a nuclear power plant; no beach access there and, for security purposes, at least a mile further up and down the coast.  And at Pacific City, the Nestucca spit, Winema and on to Neskowin, Highway 101 is a stone’s throw from the ocean. There isn’t sand at Neskowin since the removal of roughly 1,500 to 2,000 dump truck loads to create a causeway toll road (“pave over paradise and put up a parking lot”). And for an additional $50 you and your beloved can have a picture taken at the Official State Proposal Slide — located by the ocean so you can take “The Big Plunge.”

I grew up in Ohio and retired here five years ago. My wife and I lived several hours drive from Niagara Falls and its commercialization. Please, open your eyes to the gift that is around you.  And, unlike many places, it is free.

“Mine eyes have seen the misery of the coming of the road, it is blighting all the wonders and the joys that we have knowed.” Oregon State Treasurer Bob Straub was among a crowd of 300 that sang these lyrics to the tune of “Battle Hymn of the Republic” on May 8, 1966. Straub had traveled to Nestucca Spit earlier in February with his wife and daughters to find the Oregon Highway Department’s yellow stakes already driven in the dunes for the soon-to-be-started road.

Then came the Beach Bill, signed July 6, 1967.

The highway department was still intent on building on the dunes, until Straub met US Interior Secretary Stewart Udall, who made it official that BLM land given to the state for recreation could not be used for the planned road.

Several more attempts by the highway department to build on the beach failed and so, we have these sand dunes to appreciate.

Finally, in 1987, Nestucca Spit State Park was renamed for the person who saved it, Bob Straub State Park.

This is among the easiest places to know the Oregon Coast Trail, although the state website took down the old maps. You are walking south along the ocean and, after huffing and puffing over Cape Kiwanda, past the Dory fishers to Pacific City at Pacific Avenue [Beach Access 37A]. I am guessing the old route will be identical in the new map, saying exit the beach, go to Brooten Road, and turn south on Highway 101 to Winema Road, and take it back to the beach.

So, rather than exit the beach and walk on road — it’s Dave’s Detour Time.

Enter Bob Straub State Park.

I will admit that the course I wanted to list has problems — several of the carsonite markers are broken or missing. So, here is a simpler route. I re-checked the markers on Aug. 5.

Instead of exiting at Beach Access (BA) 37A for Pacific Avenue, continue south two thirds of mile to BA 37B, Bob Straub. Cresting the foredune at the parking lot, turn left/north onto Sunset Drive. Go a third of a mile on Sunset Drive and into the parking lot on the right. Head north to the end of the parking lot for a photo opportunity of “Bird Island.” If you are lucky, some of the avians might be playing “king of the [3 foot] mountain.”

After the photo shoot, head to the south end of the parking lot, in the middle point. You will be following the Marsh Trail to signs 1, 2, and 3. Going left, you continue to signs 5 through 8 — and continue another 500 feet to what I call 8A. Head to the beach, turn left/south and the spit continues one and three quarter miles. Head back two and a half miles north to BA 37A, Pacific Avenue and exit for the road work.

Along the way, you will hike past several sensitive natural areas and have a chance to smell the pines and see birds and kayakers on Nestucca River. On the beach you can occasionally see horses, surfers and people flying kites, building sand castles and so on.

Final Tally: six miles of picturesque opportunity with Dave’s Detour before walking on road. It’s your choice.