No regular Joe
Chef Paul Grossi brings Italian flair to Joe’s Table
By Eliot Sekuler
For the TODAY
Inside the restaurant doors, the setting is stylishly relaxed, and diners at Joe’s Table at Pioneer Joe’s, formerly Oshen’s Chophouse, will be forgiven if they kick back, let out a deep exhale and recline into the comfortable, well-padded chairs. The atmosphere of relaxation, a sense of feeling at home and unhurried while enjoying excellent food: it’s all part of the experience that Joe’s Table aims to deliver.
“When you come in here, we want you to lose the pressure of outside life, have some moments of respite from everything else that’s going on in your world and really enjoy yourself,” said Executive Chef Paul Grossi, who has helmed the kitchen at the creatively casual bistro for the past year. “It’s all about creating an overall enjoyable atmosphere. We want people to feel at home while they experience something memorable. When people come in and spend their hard-earned money here, we want to make sure that it’s well-spent.”
Located in the Marketplace at Salishan, the restaurant draws a mix of residents and Oregon Coast visitors. But Grossi and his partners are attuned to local tastes.
“People around here are looking for something soulful, comfort food with great attention to detail,” Grossi said. “They’re looking for food that isn’t cookie-cutter or run-of-the-mill.” The menu at Joe's Table’s reflects Grossi’s culinary search for comfort food that is far from run-of-the-mill, offering an intriguing mix of Pacific Northwest favorites and richly sauced gastronomic nods to Grossi’s Italian heritage.
On a recent visit, a starter dish of Caponata, a thick Sicilian stew of eggplant, artichoke hearts, olives and tomato, similar to a French ratatouille, arrived with grilled thick slices of Joe's Table’s homemade bread. It was topped with an optional ball of soft burrata cheese, a creamy counterpoint to the vinegar-infused flavors of the Caponata.” Portions at Joe's Table are ample and though billed as a starter, the dish could have served as a meal in itself.
Another Sicilian specialty, the Caserecci, consisted of kale and clam meat topping a bed of chewy pasta noodles, designed to hold the entrée’s rich lemon garlic cream sauce. Unusual pastas are a house specialty: the unique bell-shaped Torchio pasta, an import from Italy’s Abruzzo region, accompanies the succulent Prawns Giardino, which features Grossi’s signature pomodoro sauce, an exceptional rendering of the Italian classic that Grossi learned from his Italian grandmother.
Pacific Northwest staples are amply represented. A halibut fish and chips order is prepared with perfectly crisped breading; the fish moist and impeccably cooked. The accompanying French fries were lightly seasoned, thick-cut and twice-cooked in the European style, with a crispness on the outside and soft-as-a-pillow, melt-in-the-mouth interiors. They exemplified the restaurant’s intention to take simple ingredients and preparations and elevate them to a higher level. Other menu items that have had an evergreen appeal include two longtime carnivore favorites, the Steak Frites, featuring a flat iron steak and a chimichurri sauce and the “Bone-in Tomahawk, a majestic ribeye served with lyonnaise potatoes and a demi-glace. As with all of Grossi’s meat, fish and produce ingredients, the beef for those dishes is sourced locally and sustainably.
Grossi takes pride in showcasing the bounty of Pacific Northwest ingredients and the restaurant’s emphasis on local sources is also reflected in Joe's Table wine list. Upon settling in at the restaurant’s tables, diners are visited by wine steward Doug Pullen, who offers complimentary sips of Oregon and Washington vintages. In addition to a good assortment of Northwest wines, Joe's Table offers craft beers and some inventive, Northwest-themed cocktails.
Live music by pianist and vocal stylist Bret Lucich is on tap Thursday through Sunday evenings. On Monday nights, Grossi offers his interpretation of southern fried chicken, prepared with a gluten-free breading.
Adding a new dimension to Joe's Table, the restaurant has recently brought Cordon Bleu-trained pastry chef T.J. Christian aboard for desserts, which on a recent night included a house-made tiramisu, an exotic cake augmented with liqueur and mascarpone and an Italian Affogato, with ice cream swimming in espresso and liqueur.
“T.J. is as passionate about what he does as I am about my cooking,” Grossi said, “so having him aboard is a beautiful thing.”
Plans for future special offerings include charcuterie plates, wine dinners, homemade pasta offerings and partnerships with vintners for special wine dinners. Grossi added that he’ll experiment with new dishes as he goes along, adding items from his Italian heritage but also food from other culinary traditions.
“I really, truly do love food,” he said. “I’m trying to keep it fun and interesting and I’ve found that if you bring love and passion to it, there’s no type of food you can’t cook.”
Joe's Table at Pioneer Joe’s, located in the Marketplace at Salishan, is open Thursdays through Mondays. Lunch is served from 11 am to 3 pm, happy hour is from 3 pm to 5 pm and dinner is from 5 pm to 8 pm. For reservations, call 541-9026. For more information, go to https://www.pioneerjoecoffee.com.