Tom McCall & Roads End
By Dave Powell
For the TODAY
Last week I wrote about Gov. Oswald West, who wrote the bill that made Oregon beaches state property; and Matt Kramer, the journalist who put the issue front and center for Oregonians.
Unfortunately, only the “wet” sands were protected, by Gov. West’s bill and private interests were already developing plans to limit public access. Bills to endanger even some of the wet sands and a bill to protect public usage were pending, when Matt Kramer wrote articles informing the public of the gravity of the situation.
And into the mix was a different type of Oregon governor, one who had been on televison for years. Gov. Tom McCall would — in a day and an iconic photo — pressure the legislature to the passage of the Beach Bill.
This week’s detour focuses on memorials to that epic battle that can be found near the path of the Oregon Coast Trail (OCT).
Roads End, at the north end of Lincoln City, is the end of the Native American Old Elk Trail along the Salmon River, which connected with the Willamette Valley. A fair approximation of the trail is State Route 18. The 1894 Indian allotment had Lolla Widgeon as the owner, and eventually in 1926 the area was platted as Roads End. In 1964, Gov, Tom McCall bought a home there.
That house would be a site of a meeting on Dec. 31, 1965, when he was confronted with a illegal political deal — he refused. House Majority Leader Robert Smith came with the offer that House Speaker Monte Montgomery wouldn’t run for governor if McCall would appoint him secretary of state. As the current secretary of state, McCall was responsible to see illegal offers like this didn’t occur. After the meeting was over, he wrote it up in a memo.
After being elected governor, McCall would be remembered for the Beach Bill. Although Matt Kramer had written many articles warning of the threat to public access, Oregon beaches were still at risk. At that time, a rewritten bill had already been submitted, weakening Gov. Oswald West’s bill. What may have been the defining moment was a confrontation at Surfsand Motel in Cannon Beach.
The Oregon Secretary of State’s website recounts that Surfsand Motel owner, Bill Hay, “wanted this beach area for the use of motel guests only. He set up a log perimeter and instructed his "Cabana Boys" and other employees to tell people who were not staying at the motel to leave the ‘private beach.’”
Ever the showman, Gov. McCall headed to the coast for a photo op in front of the offending motel. It was said some of McCall’s language that day was saltier than the ocean. Thousands of people called their state representatives. The iconic picture of Gov. McCall, taken on May 13, 1967, would clinch the Beach Bill’s passage. Oregon legislators had met a governor who could, and would, use the media.
I have been to Roads End multiple times — in fact, I can’t remember the first time. It was either a July 5 beach cleanup or the CoastWatch/Oregon Shores NOAA Marine Debris survey starting at the Roads End waterfall. The first July 5 cleanup had so many fireworks shot out of a dug pit in the sand that I melted the plastic sieve used for debris removal. From the CoastWatch/Oregon Shores survey I learned there was a waterfall.
Now for the detour: After hiking about four miles toward Lincoln City, from Cascade Head make a right at Logan Road (full traffic signal), travel a mile to Roads End State Park. From there you go to the beach, turn right heading north for a distance of roughly a mile to the waterfall. Another tenth of a mile gets you to the cliff face, which you can at very low tide navigate to a hidden cobble beach (but watch the tide or you will get stranded). After walking north to the cliff or to the cobble beach, head back south on the beach. The view after the long highway walk usually will include walkers, dogs, kites and kiteboarders, but unfortunately none of the Finders Keepers glass floats as the program is currently suspended due to COVID-19.
One last note before the Final Tally: for Earth Day, SOLV is having a cleanup on April 17 at Roads End (and lots of other sites). I really wish I could join you there but, since the goal is to get as many people vaccinated so we can all enjoy Oregon’s outdoors, I will be working at a COVID shot clinic. To all who help clean the beaches, you are in my thoughts. I will be cleaning a section of the Oregon Coast Trail earlier in the week — probably between Sunset Beach and Gearhart.
Final Tally: One mile of road, and roughly an extra three and a half on the beach, instead of the OCT trail of roughly a third of a mile on NW 39th to the beach.