Roll up to Momiji

By Gretchen Ammerman

Oregon Coast TODAY

Shops and owners have come and gone at the Lincoln City Outlets, but one thing has remained the same for almost 20 years — Momiji Express, serving up gourmet Japanese and Chinese cuisine.

Manager Hedy Wang has a few theories to explain what has given the restaurant staying power through a few economic downturns and even a pandemic.

“The portions are really big so it's a really good deal,” she said. “The combination meals are a good deal, too, and people can go with our suggested options or make their own with our ‘Make your own combo,’ option.”

But portion sizes and combo control can only go so far.

Menu options like the Happy Family, a choice of beef, pork, chicken, shrimp or scallops grilled with vegetables and served on a sizzling platter, create instant fans.

“Not many people serve it in Lincoln County because of the hot platter,” Wang said. “When it comes out it’s still sizzling and smoking from the butter oil and it smells really, really good. When the server is bringing it to the table that ordered it, everyone else turns to look and often people who haven’t ordered yet will add that to what they were planning to get.”

The quality and variety of the sushi options also ensure that Momiji has a large number of repeat customers.

“We have two sushi chefs that are both really good at what they do,” Wang said. “One of them actually just got back from New York, where he studied sushi making for three years."

One of Wang’s personal favorites from the sushi menu is the Unagi Donburi, a plate of sushi rice topped with slices of barbecue eel and coated with eel sauce and sesame seeds.

“When I eat one I am really full,” she said. “I really like things with a good blend of sweet and savory.”

She’s not a fan of all options, though, even some customer favorites.

“The Bullseye is one of our premium rolls,” she said. “It comes with tuna, salmon, tomatoes, red onion, cucumber, Serrano pepper, sriracha and garlic salt. I think it’s weird but lots of people love it.”

Other premium rolls that Wang sees ordered often are the Dragon, made with tempura shrimp, avocado, cucumber, barbecue eel, spicy sauce, masago and sesame seeds; and the Coconut Shrimp, made with tempura shrimp, avocado, cream cheese, whipped cream, coconut, sesame seeds and crumbs.

“A lot of people like the crunchy sushi,” Wang said. “We have all kinds of options that include tempura, alone or in rolls.”

Have many mouths to feed?

“We also have the sushi party tray — that’s also a really good seller,” Wang said. “We have options like the ‘Kids Favorites’ that have simple rolls with single ingredients like avocado, baby shrimp and tuna, or the ‘Adventure Zone.’ That includes options for sushi lovers like different types of nigiri and favorite rolls like the Dragon or the Rainbow.”

If you’ve headed to the mall to get away from the cold and rainy weather at the beach, there’s little as comforting as a big bowl of wor won ton noodle soup, made with sautéed vegetables, beef, barbecue pork, chicken and shrimp, in a won ton noodle broth.

“That’s probably our best seller,” Wang said. “It’s a classic recipe that we do very well.”

You can also warm up with a bottle of house hot sake. Or, if you prefer your sake chilled, order a cool blue bottle of Oregon’s own Moonstone. Momiji offers both the coconut lemongrass and Asian pear flavors of this premium Oregon craft beverage brewed with pristine Willamette Valley water and carefully selected ingredients. Also on offer are American and Asian beers, and non-alcoholic options including soda and juice.

Finish your hearty meal with a special Asian dessert like green tea ice cream or a mochi in strawberry, green tea or mango.

If your time eating at Momiji turns you into a fan of their food, feel free to let others know.

“If people give us a good review on Yelp, Facebook or Google Plus, we thank them with a free appetizer the next time they come in, including edamame, spring roll or gyoza,” Wang said. “Lots of people do it.”

Momiji Express is located in the Lincoln City Outlets, 1500 SE Devils Lake Road, #305 and is open daily from 10 am to 9 pm. Nigiri specials are offered from 2 to 4 pm daily, and the lunch combo special from 10 am to 4 pm, Monday through Friday. For more information and to order ahead for pickup or delivery, go to momijiexpressor.com or call 541-996-8886.